City
Jan. 18 2017 - 12:01

Ruski: New Russian Cuisine Above the Clouds

Dining with a view on the 85th floor of a Moskva City skyscraper

At Ruski, 85 floors above the city, the food and spectacular view vie for diners’ attention.

At Ruski, 85 floors above the city, the food and spectacular view vie for diners’ attention.

RUSKI / FACEBOOK

Ruski is a new restaurant on the 85th floor of OKO, the highest skyscraper in the Moskva City neighborhood. Part of the 354 Exclusive Height project created by two restaurant empires — Chaikhona #1 and GINZA — and several independent restaurateurs, Ruski combines carefully researched traditional Russian dishes with contemporary Russian cuisine. Designed by Megre Interiors, Ruski boasts an 8-meter high traditional Russian oven and tables made of agate and wood. 

Taking up the perimeter of the 85th floor, Ruski commands truly incredible views — but they shouldn’t distract you from enjoying the food. Start with forshmak, an Ashkenazi Jewish herring appetizer served on tiny pieces of rye bread toast (340 rubles), or potato pancakes with marinated korushka, a Baltic Sea fish immensely popular in St. Petersburg (360 rubles). 

Another great starter is kulebyaka, hot, oblong-shaped Russian pie with red and white fish, or beef pirozhki, small pies prepared in the traditional oven. Continue with traditional pelmeni dumplings with venison (430 rubles), millet porridge with pumpkin and crab meat (430 rubles) or lightly smoked salmon (940 rubles). 

Don’t forget to sample some homemade infused vodka. The vodkas are divided into two categories: cordials and so-called “marinated vodkas” (270 rubles for 50 ml). The former are less strong and sweeter — try rosehip or black currant — while the latter are 80-proof with flavors like porcini mushrooms, buckwheat or galangal (a type of ginger) with strawberry. 

There are also original cocktails (470 rubles). Try one of the “imperial drinks,” each named after a Russian emperor. Elizabeth I is made of calvados, apple, lavender and blackberry, and there’s a story behind it. The empress was allergic to apples, hence the second name of the cocktail: “forbidden fruit.” Borodinsky refers to the eponymous popular black bread — it’s a mix of polugar (an 18th century version of vodka), Campari, beetroot and homemade bread cordial. 

Above Ruski is the highest open patio-transformer in Europe, which currently serves as the highest skating rink. Be sure to check out the rink and the viewing platform, weather permitting.

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