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Night and Day on Nikolskaya Ulitsa

Jun 27, 2018 - 03:29 pm

7 p.m. Before the World Cup, Nikolskaya Ulitsa was a quiet pedestrian street, used mostly as a way to get from Red Square to Lubyanka. Now, it is a destination in itself. The night starts early. Anton Muratov / MT

8 p.m. For Russians, the open-air football party is a unique opportunity to meet foreign fans and support their home team. Sergei Kiselyov / Moskva News Agency

9 p.m. A little later in the evening, the Tretyakovsky passage off Nikolskaya will be crammed with fans. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

10 p.m. As evening turns into night, noise levels increase. Normally, such rowdiness would attract the attention of the police. But now everyone is getting in on the fun while it is permitted. Igor Ivanko / Moskva News Agency

11 p.m. Mexican fans make their presence known on Nikolskaya. Chants of “Viva Mexico!” sound through the air and a fan climbs up a lamppost to attach the Mexican flag. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

12 p.m. With alcohol flowing, the crowd grows more animated. One thing is for sure: People are really getting into football. Maxim Shemetov / Reuters

1 a.m. Loud music, chanting and yelling — those who go to Nikolskaya could have trouble having a conversation. Alexander Avilov / Moskva News Agency

2 a.m. Russian police grab hold of a Brazilian fan for misbehaving and a group of Russian fans intervene on his behalf. A fight ensues. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

3 a.m. Some venues on Nikolskaya close for an hour in the early morning to clean up. Three revelers sit outside a restaurant, waiting for it to reopen. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

4 a.m. Public toilets and restaurant bathrooms are often available, but many choose an alternate way. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

5 a.m. Often overlooked, cleaners work around the clock to keep Nikolskaya clear of litter. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

6 a.m. By now, it is broad daylight but some people are not quite ready to call it quits. Pavel Zelenkov / MT

We spent 12 hours in the impromptu heart of Russia’s World Cup. On Nikolskaya Ulitsa, the party sometimes slows, but it never stops.

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