The Steel Heart of Russia Left Behind by History

Nov 17, 2017 - 10:40 am

MMK’s many smokestacks can be seen from almost any point in the city, and in addition to providing a bleak, industrial backdrop to daily life, they contribute to a significant problem of air pollution. Francis Farrell

Magnitogorsk’s relationship with its Stalinist past remains uneasy and ambiguous. When questioned about forced laborers in the city’s construction, the guide at the MMK museum acknowledge their role but denied they were gulag prisoners. This monument honors those workers who lived in tents. Francis Farrell

Magnitogorsk’s significant contribution to World War II is an ongoing source of pride for locals. The refrain “Every second tank and every third shell was made from Magnitogorsk steel” is known and memorized by all. Francis Farrell

Guarding the main entrance to the MMK, one of the city’s many monuments to Lenin gazes outwards. Many arts and recreational activities in the city are subsidized for workers, but the intense working conditions and low pay still leave many eager to leave. Francis Farrell

Afternoon rush hour on Profsoyuzny Bridge from the Asian side to a more residential part of the city. Unlike many cities of this size, Magnitogorsk’s transport network relies heavily on aging tramways. Francis Farrell

Pionerskaya district, where the city’s oldest residential buildings can be found, is being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status as an example of socialist residential architecture. This neighborhood is considered among the most unsafe in the city with many buildings in a serious state of disrepair. Francis Farrell

Solemn and foreboding, the Holy Ascension Cathedral is the principal church of the Magnitogorsk Diocese. As with the adjacent arena, the cathedral was paid for by MMK with the height of the building made to match the original MMK blast furnace. Francis Farrell

The Magnitogorsk Iron and Steel Works seen from the remains of Magnitnaya Mountain. Huge amounts of iron ore were extracted from here in Stalin’s plans to turn the Soviet Union into a “country of metal.” Having long since exhausted the reserves, the plant now sources its iron ore from northern Kazakhstan. Francis Farrell

Built from scratch in the southern Urals as the centerpiece of Stalin’s first Five-Year Plan in 1931, Magnitogorsk is colloquially known as the “steel heart of Russia.”

The city is dominated by the huge Magnitogorsk Iron and Steel Works (MMK) — a sprawling industrial complex employing 38 percent of the city’s residents and taking up almost half of its territory on the Asian side of the Ural River.

But locals express a strained mix of pride and resentment towards the all-encompassing industrial conglomerate that consumes their city.

The Steel Heart of Russia Left Behind by History

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