Alexander Rappoport, lawyer turned restaurateur, has once again expanded his empire. His previous two restaurants — Lapsha i Utki (Tangerine, Noodles and Duck), a fresh take on Chinese cuisine, and meat lover's paradise Voronezh — have become essential stops on the Moscow gastronomic tour. His latest addition, Grand Yevropeisky Express (Grand European Express) is bound to do the same.
Grand Yevropeisky Express is located on the lower level of the Yevropeisky mall across from Kievsky Station. It's from this setting that the restaurant draws its inspiration. Waitresses are dressed as train conductors, there is a toy train riding around the dining hall and the menu is a whistle-stop tour of best in European dining.
The restaurant is divided into five zones: London, Paris, Rome, Vienna and Moscow. Vienna is instantly recognizable by a partition featuring a reproduction of Klimt's "Tree of Life," Moscow — by the traditional khokhloma painted furniture designs, and Rome — by ancient bust replicas and an ornamental Italian bicycle.
Grand Yevropeisky Express borrowed its chef Alexei Berzin from Rappoport's all-day breakfast joint Cook'kareku. Start with the octopus carpaccio with tomato jam, beetroot couscous and cuttlefish ink sauce (490 rubles) or Berzin's take on Caprese salad — mozzarella spread on a special kind of biscuit made with several types of herbs (380 rubles). Continue with duck confit with polenta (560 rubles) or a traditional Viennese veal schnitzel (640 rubles).
Other highlights include Hungarian goulash (390 rubles), French salad Niçoise (460 rubles) or quiche Lorraine (420 rubles), and Scottish meat pie (620 rubles). Accompany your meal with a cocktail or wine from France, Italy, Spain or even Russia. Prices start from 360 rubles per glass.
The charming "Kievsky in a glass" dessert is served in a traditional Russian tea glass —the kind used by passengers on trains across Russia — which contains a modern interpretation of a famous Soviet dessert — meringue with dark chocolate, condensed milk and nuts (220 rubles).
Thanks to Rappoport there is finally a delightful place to while away the time as you wait for a train or the Aeroexpress to Vnukovo Airport. It's the ideal dinner spot for any foodie traveler.
+7 (985) 649 0880
facebook.com/grexpress
2 Ploshchad Kievskogo Vokzala. Metro Kievskaya
Contact the author at artsreporter@imedia.ru
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